Verger Frères were master artisans working with and supplying the greatest of their time - including Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, Boucheron, Tiffany's, etc. But I guess if you haven't been extremely deep into vintage watches - or French jewelry - the name Verger or their creations don't necessarily ring a bell... Tim to change this!
November 20, 2024
French Style - Verger Frères & the Roaring Twenties
Marcus Siems @siemswatches
Collector, Author, Data Analyst
I guess if you haven't been extremely deep into vintage watches - or French jewelry - the name Verger doesn't necessarily ring a bell... The now famous jewelry house was founded in 1872 in Paris by jeweler and watchmaker Ferdinand Verger (1851-1928). Quickly becoming a household name for exquisite quality they Ferdinand worked on the third Fabergé egg for the Russian Tsar in 1887. The sons Georges-Albert and Henri-Louis later joined the company in 1911 and it was hence renamed into "Verger Frères".
And it was until the end of Ferdinand's lifetime that the company would make themselves a name with the most phenomenal Artdeco creations in the world of wristwatches, pocket watches, table clocks and beyond.
A wonderful 1920s table clock with onyx, nephrite, gold and lapis lazuli by Verger Frères (and Vacheron Constantin movement). In the lower left you can see the makers mark 'VF'. Photo Courtesy of Antiquorum.
The maison created some of the most lavish horological artifacts by encasing movements from the finest Swiss watchmakers in various precious metals and exotic materials combined in ornate designs. The Parisians hereby joined forces with Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Jaeger, or Cyma ... but they are today probably best known for their work with Vacheron Constantin.
The collaboration between 'VF' and 'VC' started in 1875 when delivered the first high-grae movements to Paris. And further in 1879 the partnership deepened when Ferdinand Verger became the official agent for Vacheron in Paris. And this close collaboration lasted for over 60 years until 1938.
The "Master of Artdeco" at Verger Frères were making some of the most interesting and forward thinking case designs of the first quarter of the last Century. Creations that appear almost alien to us now - VC Movement No. 404,393, VF case No. 10322. Photo Courtesy of Antiquorum.
There are dozens if not hundreds of distinct designs that originated from this partnership... from double retrograde (Bras en L'Air) pocket watches, early bracelet watches, classic Greek and Asian style desk and mantle clocks, to the finest in wristwatchmaking. Our modern taste might not resonate too well with these debaucherous compositions but during the 1920s and 30s this was the pinnacle of design.
But before we go on forever let us focus on two particular designs that originated in this illustrious times and are still very collectable objects to this day.
1) The Shutter
A square 'Shutter' Vacheron Constantin from the late 1920s. This one will be auctioned in the upcoming Phillips 2024 December New York auction. Photos Courtesy of Phillips.
If haven't seen one before it's really something you won't see anywhere else... And as you can see, you don't see much on this picture at all. The square 26mm case - here a white gold* base with protruding yellow gold bezel and case back - hides the dial behind blinds. It takes turning the crown at 3o'clock to unveil the time.
Not only extremely fashionable, this mechanism was very much intended to protect the crystal and the dial. This "Watch with rotating blades, forming a protective screen of the dial" was consequently patented by (Georges-Albert) Verger in 1930 (FR 691,683).
Two opened 'shutter' watches unveiling the wonderful dials with round railway minute track and Breguet-style or baton hands. Photos Courtesy of Antiquorum.
There are two distinct executions of this watch - either square or with rounded edges. They always come in two-tone - yellow- and white gold - with Artdeco Arabic numerals on the bezel at 3-6-9-12 and triangular marker in between. The crowns are mostly flat but can vary as rounded or with sapphire cabochons.
So far these pieces have occured in very narrow movement numbers in the 412,8xx, 414,4xx, and 414,8xx ranges. Looking into the case numbers this further boils down to a consistent VF case range from 12779 to 12786 and tow outlier at 12508 and 12822. It appears that we're speaking of maybe 50 of these pieces ever being produced!**
Potentially the craziest 'Shutter' watch out there - the rounded example with Artdeco style bracelet. Photo Courtesy of Antiquorum.
2) The Purse Surprise
It appears Verger Frères - under the creative regime of Georges-Albert - was very much into concealing the most important aspect of their watches - the dial. The other potentially as collectable horological item are the purse or 'flap' watches (montres à volets). These pocket watch alternatives can be carried everywhere and sit even more gracefully atop your desk:
The purse watch - 'montres à volets' - was another popular invention by Verger Frères and a testament to its time. Photos Courtesy of Christie's.
Another sophisticated mechanism means another patent. In 1928 Verger patented the 'Opening Case for Watches or other Items' (FR 656,483). As you can see nicely from the pictures above pressing the outer ends (white golden in the example) will open the top flaps and the watch reveals itself by popping up - a 'surprise watch'.
Quite cool, quite chic and the perfect canvas for extravagant finishing techniques and decorations. As a matter of fact I have found quite a few of these pieces but I have identified only two that look exactly alike:
Various examples of the purse watches from Verger Frères made predominantly with Vacheron Constantin movements but also Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. Photos Courtesy of Antiquorum, Christie's, & Vacheron Constantin.
These pieces have been decorated with geometric Gatsby-esque shapes, colored enamel, gemstones and come in various materials from yellow over white gold to platinum. Importantly, and that is true for all Verger Frères watches, many of these came with retailer signatures. And even though I said these were made in collaboration with VC at least one example was made with Audemars Piguet (no. 11228) and two with Patek Philippe (nos. 12267 & 12268). But anyway all of them were unique pieces (or very close to).
3) Conclusion
Artdeco is not hip right now... Potentially the only reason these pieces don't make any headlines because the quality, creativity and ingenuity are paralleled by very few. We must go this far to say that the maison Verger were a hub for inventors of the fine crafts and the watches I have presented here today are just examples.
Verger Frères were designing the "Mystérieuses" clocks for Cartier Paris that were the gem in the 1920s and 30s catalogues. Verger patented various inventions including for example watch winding mechanisms, furniture attachable watches, belt-buckle style bracelet clasps, combined case and clasp, several watch cases, as well as their own wristwatch.
The patents FR656483 (purse watch) & FR695483 (shutter watch) registered by Verger Frères between 1928 and 1930. Photos Courtesy of Escapenet.
Verger Frères were master artisans working with and supplying the greatest of their time - including Cartier, Lecloche, Ostertag, Boucheron, Tiffany's, Black Starr & Frost & J.E. Caldwell. These pieces are not just time capsules to the long forgotten era of prohibition, Jazz and voluptuous fashion but also showcase so well how craft, creativity and innovation can go hand in hand. It is the same spirit modern Independents work today. It is not timeless but state-of-the-art 1920s design!
Footnote
* White gold was only patented and commercially available by 1912. It is the new and chic material of the Artdeco and was particularly popular in the 1920s and 30s.
** Extremely rare were the horizontally shuttered pieces with sliding button at 6o'clock. You can see it pointed out in the patent and one resides with Vacheron Constantin. You can also find the 'lapel shutter' watch - see here, here, here. Or wristwatches in the style as the original shutter pieces but without shutter - here, here, here.
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