Universal Geneve 104503 Polerouter 1950s

Genta’s First Icon — Where mid-century elegance meets pioneering watch design.

Designed in 1954 by a young Gérald Genta, the Universal Genève Polerouter became an instant icon — born from a collaboration with Scandinavian Airlines to combat the magnetic fields of polar flight routes.

This rare ref. 104503-3 is one of the most elegant Polerouter executions ever produced. Crafted from solid 18k yellow gold, the watch features slender lugs, a beautifully proportioned 34 mm case, and a striking black crosshair dial that exudes understated luxury. The original UG-signed crown and gold-plated buckle are still present — details that make this an exceptional collector’s piece.

At the heart ticks the innovative Caliber 215-1 micro-rotor movement, which remains a technical milestone in automatic watchmaking for its thin profile and exceptional efficiency. 

A perfect storm of design pedigree, mechanical innovation, and historical charm — this Polerouter isn’t just a vintage watch. It’s the beginning of a legend.

- wrist size in our picture is 18cm circumference -

DIAL

• original never touched black dial in great condition
• original hands and UG signed crown
  

STRAP & BUCKLE:

• black GOLDAMMER leather strap fitting up to 21 cm wrist size / 2.4 mm thick
• original UG gold plated buckle

CASE:

• great overall condition, showing minor traces of use
• 3- body 18k yellow gold case with screw-down case back
• 34 mm (without crown) / 43 mm (lug-to-lug) / 18 mm (between lugs) / 11 mm thick
• year: 1957-1959
  
• reference: 104503-3
• total weight: 55 g

MOVEMENT:

• Universal Geneve Caliber 215-1 - automatic microtor
• 28 jewels, 18000 A/h, 57 hours power reserve
  
• professionally serviced 06/2025
• -5 sec/d / 300°

BOX & PAPERS:

• GOLDAMMER certificate of authenticity & service documentation card
• GOLDAMMER box

GOLDAMMER REFERENCE: #1051