Vintage Universal Geneve Compax watch from the 1940s, 18k rose gold, cream dial, chronograph, leather strap on a wrist on black background

Vintage Universal Geneve Compax watch from the 1940s, 18k rose gold, cream dial, chronograph, leather strap on a wrist on blurred background

Vintage Universal Geneve Compax watch from the 1940s, 18k rose gold, held by a hand against a blurred background

Vintage Universal Geneve Compax watch from the 1940s, 18k rose gold, cream dial, chronograph, leather strap on a wrist on black background, video

Vintage Universal Geneve Compax watch from the 1940s, 18k rose gold, cream dial, chronograph,video of details

Universal Geneve 12557 Compax 18k Rose 1940s

Name: Universal Geneve 12557 Compax 18k Rose 1940s
Brand: Universal Geneve
SKU: #1376
Price: 8900.00 EUR
Availability: OutOfStock

€8.900

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Description
BRAND HISTORY

Universal Genève Compax Ref. 12557 – Rose Gold Chronograph, late 1940s

Dating to the heyday of Universal Genève, this Compax chronograph from the late 1940s is a pure expression of functional elegance. Introduced in 1935, the Compax became a benchmark for balanced, legible chronograph design.

This example is housed in a beautifully preserved 36 mm 18k rose gold case, offering ideal proportions and warm presence on the wrist. The original cream dial, with its evenly developed patina, presents the classic three-register layout with excellent clarity and charm.

Powered by the Universal Genève Cal. 287, this watch combines historical importance with timeless aesthetics—an outstanding vintage chronograph for collectors who value authenticity and refinement.

- wrist size in our picture is 18cm circumference -

DIAL:

beautiful never touched cream dial with some even patina throughout
original hands and dial
the crown might have been replaced in the past

STRAP & BUCKLE:

cognac brown GOLDAMMER Kardinal leather strap fitting up to 20 cm wrist size / 2 mm thick
rose gold plated GOLDAMMER buckle

CASE:

great overall condition, showing minor traces of use
3- body 18k rose gold case with snap-on case back
36 mm (without crown) / 43 mm (lug-to-lug) / 18 mm (between lugs) / 12.5 mm thick
Year: late 1940s
reference: 12557
total weight: 45 g

MOVEMENT:

Universal Geneve Caliber 287
17 jewels, 18000 A/h, 36 hours power reserve
professionally serviced 01/2026
+3 sec/d / 280°

BOX & PAPERS:

GOLDAMMER certificate of authenticity & service documentation card
GOLDAMMER Box

GOLDAMMER REFERENCE: #1376

Universal Genève

Before the world came to know the icons of Rolex or Patek Philippe, there was Universal Genève — a house revered among connoisseurs, yet quietly hidden in plain sight. Founded in 1894, Universal Genève was once hailed as the “watchmaker’s watchmaker,” crafting chronographs and complications that set the standard for the 20th century.

Among vintage watch collectors, the name Universal Genève evokes something special. Not mass prestige, but purity. Not hype, but heritage. Their legendary chronographs — from the Compax line to the graceful Tri-Compax, from the sleek Aero-Compax to the revered Uni-Compax — combine mechanical ingenuity with unmistakable design language. Balanced. Understated. Iconic.

Then there’s the Polerouter — a marvel of mid-century design born from a young Gérald Genta. Created for pilots crossing the polar route to Los Angeles, it’s a symbol of adventure and precision. With its dynamic crosshair dials, twisted lugs, and micro-rotor movement, the Polerouter is one of the most beloved vintage watches ever made.

Universal Genève didn’t chase celebrity endorsements. They didn’t need to. Their watches spoke for themselves — in the cockpit, in the boardroom, and now, in the display cases of collectors who truly know.

To wear a vintage Universal Genève is to signal something rare: discerning taste. You’re not chasing status. You’re preserving legacy. You understand that real beauty lies in details — beveled lugs, elegant proportions, movements finished with care.

These aren’t watches that scream. They speak — with the voice of a forgotten golden era in Swiss watchmaking.

And in today’s noisy world, that voice is being rediscovered — one collector, one vintage watch, one moment of quiet admiration at a time.

Because Universal Genève may have been overlooked by the mainstream…

But among those who know, it was never forgotten.