Universal Geneve 104503 Polerouter 1950s

Name: Universal Geneve 104503 Polerouter 1950s
Brand: Universal Geneve
SKU: #1051
Price: 6900.0 EUR
Availability: OutOfStock

€6.900

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Description
BRAND HISTORY

Genta’s First Icon — Where mid-century elegance meets pioneering watch design.

Designed in 1954 by a young Gérald Genta, the Universal Genève Polerouter became an instant icon — born from a collaboration with Scandinavian Airlines to combat the magnetic fields of polar flight routes.

This rare ref. 104503-3 is one of the most elegant Polerouter executions ever produced. Crafted from solid 18k yellow gold, the watch features slender lugs, a beautifully proportioned 34 mm case, and a striking black crosshair dial that exudes understated luxury. The original UG-signed crown and gold-plated buckle are still present — details that make this an exceptional collector’s piece.

At the heart ticks the innovative Caliber 215-1 micro-rotor movement, which remains a technical milestone in automatic watchmaking for its thin profile and exceptional efficiency.

A perfect storm of design pedigree, mechanical innovation, and historical charm — this Polerouter isn’t just a vintage watch. It’s the beginning of a legend.

- wrist size in our picture is 18cm circumference -

DIAL

original never touched black dial in great condition
original hands and UG signed crown

STRAP & BUCKLE:

black GOLDAMMER leather strap fitting up to 21 cm wrist size / 2.4 mm thick
original UG gold plated buckle

CASE:

great overall condition, showing minor traces of use
3- body 18k yellow gold case with screw-down case back
34 mm (without crown) / 43 mm (lug-to-lug) / 18 mm (between lugs) / 11 mm thick
year: 1957-1959
reference: 104503-3
total weight: 55 g

MOVEMENT:

Universal Geneve Caliber 215-1 - automatic microtor
28 jewels, 18000 A/h, 57 hours power reserve
professionally serviced 06/2025
-5 sec/d / 300°

BOX & PAPERS:

GOLDAMMER certificate of authenticity & service documentation card
GOLDAMMER box

GOLDAMMER REFERENCE: #1051

Universal Genève

Before the world came to know the icons of Rolex or Patek Philippe, there was Universal Genève — a house revered among connoisseurs, yet quietly hidden in plain sight. Founded in 1894, Universal Genève was once hailed as the “watchmaker’s watchmaker,” crafting chronographs and complications that set the standard for the 20th century.

Among vintage watch collectors, the name Universal Genève evokes something special. Not mass prestige, but purity. Not hype, but heritage. Their legendary chronographs — from the Compax line to the graceful Tri-Compax, from the sleek Aero-Compax to the revered Uni-Compax — combine mechanical ingenuity with unmistakable design language. Balanced. Understated. Iconic.

Then there’s the Polerouter — a marvel of mid-century design born from a young Gérald Genta. Created for pilots crossing the polar route to Los Angeles, it’s a symbol of adventure and precision. With its dynamic crosshair dials, twisted lugs, and micro-rotor movement, the Polerouter is one of the most beloved vintage watches ever made.

Universal Genève didn’t chase celebrity endorsements. They didn’t need to. Their watches spoke for themselves — in the cockpit, in the boardroom, and now, in the display cases of collectors who truly know.

To wear a vintage Universal Genève is to signal something rare: discerning taste. You’re not chasing status. You’re preserving legacy. You understand that real beauty lies in details — beveled lugs, elegant proportions, movements finished with care.

These aren’t watches that scream. They speak — with the voice of a forgotten golden era in Swiss watchmaking.

And in today’s noisy world, that voice is being rediscovered — one collector, one vintage watch, one moment of quiet admiration at a time.

Because Universal Genève may have been overlooked by the mainstream…

But among those who know, it was never forgotten.