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Universal Geneve 12253 Tricompax 18k Rose 1940s

Regular price €12.900
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Only 1 available

Free insured express delivery

1-year mechanical warranty

14-day free returns

Authenticity guarantee

A Rose Gold Chronograph Icon - Universal Genève Tri-Compax Ref. 12253

The Universal Genève Tri-Compax is one of the most iconic and collectible vintage chronographs ever made — and this ref. 12253 from the 1940s is a particularly rare and desirable version.

Housed in a mid-sized 34 mm 18k rose gold case with sharp angled lugs, this piece has the perfect proportions for modern wrists while retaining every bit of vintage charm. The silver dial, untouched and evenly patinated over time, displays a full triple calendar with moonphase and chronograph layout — one of the most beloved configurations in vintage watch collecting.

Powered by the revered Caliber 481, this Tri-Compax blends technical complexity with elegant 1940s/1950s aesthetics — a grail-worthy piece of Swiss horological history.

- wrist size in our picture is 18cm circumference -

DIAL:

  • original never touched silver dial in good condition
  • original hands and crown
  • some evenly developed patina and very minor imperfections throughout the dial
  • some numbers in the moonphase window might have been repainted in the past

STRAP & BUCKLE:

CASE:

  • good overall condition, showing some traces of use
  • 3- body 18k rose gold case with snap-on case back from casemaker Jung & Fils
  • 34 mm (without crown) / 43 mm (lug-to-lug) / 16 mm (between lugs) / 13 mm thick
  • year: 1940s
  • reference: 12253
  • total weight: 47 g 

MOVEMENT:

  • Universal Geneve Cal. 481
  • 17 jewels, 18000 A/h, 44 hours power reserve
  • professionally serviced in 02/2026
  • +12 sec/d / 280°

BOX & PAPERS:

  • GOLDAMMER certificate of authenticity & service documentation card
  • GOLDAMMER Box

GOLDAMMER REFERENCE: #1413

Universal Genève

Before the world came to know the icons of Rolex or Patek Philippe, there was Universal Genève — a house revered among connoisseurs, yet quietly hidden in plain sight. Founded in 1894, Universal Genève was once hailed as the “watchmaker’s watchmaker,” crafting chronographs and complications that set the standard for the 20th century.

Among vintage watch collectors, the name Universal Genève evokes something special. Not mass prestige, but purity. Not hype, but heritage. Their legendary chronographs — from the Compax line to the graceful Tri-Compax, from the sleek Aero-Compax to the revered Uni-Compax — combine mechanical ingenuity with unmistakable design language. Balanced. Understated. Iconic.

Then there’s the Polerouter — a marvel of mid-century design born from a young Gérald Genta. Created for pilots crossing the polar route to Los Angeles, it’s a symbol of adventure and precision. With its dynamic crosshair dials, twisted lugs, and micro-rotor movement, the Polerouter is one of the most beloved vintage watches ever made.

Universal Genève didn’t chase celebrity endorsements. They didn’t need to. Their watches spoke for themselves — in the cockpit, in the boardroom, and now, in the display cases of collectors who truly know.

To wear a vintage Universal Genève is to signal something rare: discerning taste. You’re not chasing status. You’re preserving legacy. You understand that real beauty lies in details — beveled lugs, elegant proportions, movements finished with care.

These aren’t watches that scream. They speak — with the voice of a forgotten golden era in Swiss watchmaking.

And in today’s noisy world, that voice is being rediscovered — one collector, one vintage watch, one moment of quiet admiration at a time.

Because Universal Genève may have been overlooked by the mainstream…

But among those who know, it was never forgotten.

SHIPPING

Delivered with care. Safely, worldwide.

  • Worldwide express shipping (DHL Express/FedEx). Fully insured with tracking.
  • Dispatch within 1 business day after payment
    • Cutoff time 10:30 a.m. CET
    • Outside EU +1 day for customs docs
  • Average delivery times:
    • EU: 1–2 days
    • US: 3–7 days
    • Asia/Middle East/Australia/Other: 3–7 days
  • Discreet packaging — no external branding, secure & protective.
  • Customs & duties vary by country. Clear documentation provided.
  • 14-day return window after receipt.

Full details in our Shipping Policy. & Frequently asked questions page.

CUSTOMS/TAX
  • Within the EU: Prices include all applicable taxes.
  • Outside the EU: Local customs duties or import taxes may apply.

    We claim the export documents at the German customs (takes 1 working day). You’ll receive an email from DHL or FedEx to pay these fees before delivery.

    See our Frequently Asked Questions for details.
INQUIRIES & BANK WIRE

Do you have any questions or want to pay by bank transfer? Email us. Our Head of Sales martin@goldammer.me is here to assist you.

Elevate your watch collection:


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