Universal Geneve Polerouter 104503 Date 18k Black 1960s

Name: Universal Geneve Polerouter 104503 Date 18k Black 1960s
Brand: Universal Geneve
SKU: #1238
Price: 6900.00 EUR
Availability: OutOfStock

€6.900

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Description
BRAND HISTORY

Universal Genève Polerouter 104503 — 18k Yellow Gold, Black Crosshair Dial (1960s)

Genta’s First Icon — where mid-century elegance meets pioneering watch design.

Designed in 1954 by a young Gérald Genta, the Universal Genève Polerouter quickly became a symbol of technical innovation and modernist design. Developed for Scandinavian Airlines’ polar routes, it was engineered to withstand magnetic fields while embodying a new era of streamlined elegance.

This rare Ref. 104503 represents one of the most refined iterations of the Polerouter line. The 18k yellow gold case is beautifully proportioned with slim lugs and a timeless 34 mm profile. Its untouched black crosshair dial delivers striking contrast and sophistication — a design language that feels both vintage and contemporary.

The presence of the original UG-signed crown and matching gold-plated buckle makes this example particularly desirable for collectors.

Inside beats the legendary Caliber 215 micro-rotor, a groundbreaking automatic movement known for its thin architecture and efficiency — a true milestone in horological engineering.

A historically important piece that captures the birth of Genta’s design legacy.

- wrist size in our picture is 18cm circumference -

DIAL

original never touched black dial in great condition
original hands and UG signed crown

STRAP & BUCKLE:

matte black GOLDAMMER Kardinal leather strap fitting up to 20 cm wrist size / 2 mm thick
gold plated GOLDAMMER buckle

CASE:

great overall condition, showing minor traces of use
3- body 18k yellow gold case with screw-down case back
34 mm (without crown) / 43 mm (lug-to-lug) / 18 mm (between lugs) / 11 mm thick
year: 1960s
reference: 104503
total weight: 53 g

MOVEMENT:

Universal Geneve Caliber 215 - automatic microtor
28 jewels, 18000 A/h, 57 hours power reserve
professionally serviced 11/2025
+2 sec/d / 290°

BOX & PAPERS:

GOLDAMMER certificate of authenticity & service documentation card
GOLDAMMER box

GOLDAMMER REFERENCE: #1238

Universal Genève

Before the world came to know the icons of Rolex or Patek Philippe, there was Universal Genève — a house revered among connoisseurs, yet quietly hidden in plain sight. Founded in 1894, Universal Genève was once hailed as the “watchmaker’s watchmaker,” crafting chronographs and complications that set the standard for the 20th century.

Among vintage watch collectors, the name Universal Genève evokes something special. Not mass prestige, but purity. Not hype, but heritage. Their legendary chronographs — from the Compax line to the graceful Tri-Compax, from the sleek Aero-Compax to the revered Uni-Compax — combine mechanical ingenuity with unmistakable design language. Balanced. Understated. Iconic.

Then there’s the Polerouter — a marvel of mid-century design born from a young Gérald Genta. Created for pilots crossing the polar route to Los Angeles, it’s a symbol of adventure and precision. With its dynamic crosshair dials, twisted lugs, and micro-rotor movement, the Polerouter is one of the most beloved vintage watches ever made.

Universal Genève didn’t chase celebrity endorsements. They didn’t need to. Their watches spoke for themselves — in the cockpit, in the boardroom, and now, in the display cases of collectors who truly know.

To wear a vintage Universal Genève is to signal something rare: discerning taste. You’re not chasing status. You’re preserving legacy. You understand that real beauty lies in details — beveled lugs, elegant proportions, movements finished with care.

These aren’t watches that scream. They speak — with the voice of a forgotten golden era in Swiss watchmaking.

And in today’s noisy world, that voice is being rediscovered — one collector, one vintage watch, one moment of quiet admiration at a time.

Because Universal Genève may have been overlooked by the mainstream…

But among those who know, it was never forgotten.