This is already the second part of this Patek Philippe part of my database. And this one is pretty special for me too as it covers an area of watch design that has always been fascinating me - shaped watches. I'll try to lay the foundation for a community driven database for the rare, the rarely seen and the rarely remembered timepieces that do not get the attention that other pieces might get. I'd be more than happy for everyone who sees him/herself fit to share and to add information about what we love - vintage watches. This is not an exhaustive list, yet(!) but I want it to become a central resource for everyone finding their way into vintage watches, from novice to expert.

April 04, 2023

Vintage Patek Philippe Guide: Shaped Watches

  


Marcus Siems     Marcus Siems @siemswatches
    Collector, Author, Data Analyst


 

Reference Guide & Database:

Rolex Chronographs 1940s-50s - Pre-Daytona - Daytona

Patek Philippe Sub-Second - Center-Second - Shaped Watches

 

This is already the second part of this Patek Philippe part of my database. And this one is pretty special for me too as it covers an area of watch design that has always been fascinating me - shaped watches.

I'll try to lay the foundation for a community driven database for the rare, the rarely seen and the rarely remembered timepieces that do not get the attention that other pieces might get. I'd be more than happy for everyone who sees him/herself fit to share and to add information about what we love - vintage watches. This is not an exhaustive list, yet(!) but I want it to become a central resource for everyone finding their way into vintage watches, from novice to expert.

 

Beautiful vintage Patek Philippe ref. 3485 from MLGThe beauty of shaped watches. Particularly Patek Philippe was on the forefront of designing these special oddities all throughout the last Century. Photo Patek Philippe ref. 3485 Courtesy of Monaco Legend Group.

 

Counterintuitively, the most prominent and game-changing pieces - so the best-sellers - are the pieces with the least reliable production estimates and are thus less often covered... as is the case here. So hopefully we can close these gaps together.

 

You can also find some Beginner's Guides on shaped watches - here - here - here - here -

 

You can rotate your mobile phone for a better experience

 

Shaped Patek Philippe Watches - Mechanical

Early References (1937-45)

Ref. 77

Patek Philippe Ref. 77 in platinum     Period: 1930-34
    Production: 2* PT known
    Movement: Manual
    Specifics: One of first with reference number
    Source: Chr Geneva Nov. 2018

 

Ref. 492

vintage Patek Philippe 492 in rose gold

    Period: 1936-49
    Production: 12* steel
    Movement: Manual
    Specifics: Stepped case
    Source: Chr Geneva Nov. 2019

 

Ref. 1485

unusual steel Patek Philippe ref. 1485 Taubert case

    Period: 1940-49
    Production: 200 (200 steel)
    Movement: Manual (10-110/10-200)
    Specifics: Taubert case
    Source: Collectability

 

 

 

Post War Years (1945-60)

Ref. 1593

vintage Patek Philippe 1593

    Period: 1944-67
    Production: 1000 (250 PT)
    Movement: Manual
    Specifics: Markowski Case
    Source: Phi Geneva Nov. 2019

 

Ref. 2441

Rare Eiffel Tower Patek Philippe ref. 2441

    Period: 1948-58
    Production: 200
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 9-90)
    Specifics: Eiffel Tower (Markowski)
    Source: Chr NY Dec. 2018

 

Ref. 2442

Marylin Monroe vintage Patek Philippe 2442

    Period: 1948-53
    Production: 200 (60 RG, 3* PT)
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 9-90)
    Specifics: Marylin Monroe (Markowski)
    Source: Phi Geneva Nov. 2022, MLG Apr. 2023

 

Ref. 2443

Rare Patek Philippe ref. 2443 in yellow gold

    Period: 1948-53
    Production: 41* (16* YG, 10* RG, 15* PT)
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 9-90)
    Specifics: Straight Claw Lugs
    Source: Chr NY Apr. 2008, MLG Oct. 2021, Herschmann Ascona

 

Ref. 2471

Ram's head Patek Philippe ref. 2471

    Period: 1950-53
    Production: 60 (40 YG, 20 RG)
    Movement: Manual (9-90)
    Specifics: "Ram's Head" lugs
    Source: Chr Geneva May 2015, Phi NY Dec. 2018

 

Ref. 2517

vintage Patek Philippe 2517

    Period: 1950-53
    Production: 9* (4* YG, 4* RG, 1* YG/PT)
    Movement: Manual (9-90)
    Specifics: hooded lugs
    Source: Collector Square

 

Ref. 2514

Patek Philippe ref. 2514 with Cow Horn lugs

    Period: 1950-56
    Production: 9* (7* YG, 2* RG)
    Movement: Manual (cal. 27 SC)
    Specifics: cow-horn lugs
    Source: Collector Square

 

 

 

Gilbert Albert Designs (1955-62 - Markowski cases, Stern Freres dials)

Ref. 3409

Gilbert Albert bracelet watch    Period: 1958-62
    Production: 8*
    Movement: Manual (9-90)
    Specifics: Bracelet, Ruby marker, bark finish
    Source: Collectability

 

Ref. 3412

Gilbert Albert Patek Philippe ref. 3412 Asymmetrique    Period: 1958-62
    Production: 16 (12 YG, 4 RG)
    Movement: Manual (23-300)
    Specifics: Asymmetrique
    Source: Collectability

 

Ref. 3413

Gilbert Albert Patek Philippe ref. 3413    Period: 1958-59
    Production: 7*
    Movement: Manual (23-300)
    Specifics: -
    Source: Chr Geneva Nov. 2010

 

Ref. 3422

rare Albert Gilbert Patek Philippe 3422    Period: 1958-62
    Production: 10* (4 RG, 6* YG)
    Movement: Manual (23-300)
    Specifics: Asymmetrique
    Source: Chr NY June 2015, Collector Square

 

Ref. 3424

shaped Gilbert Albert Patek Philippe 3424    Period: 1958-62
    Production: 152 (90 YG, 30 RG, 18 WG, 24 PT)
    Movement: Manual (8-85)
    Specifics: Asymmetrique, "most common" GA
    Source: Sot NY June 2021

 

Ref. 3270

Gilbert Albert Patek Philippe ref. 3270 bracelet watch    Period: 1960-61
    Production: 4* (4* YG, 1* bracelet)
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 13.5)
    Specifics: 3270-1 bracelet
    Source: Collectability

 

 

 

Upswing and Quartz Revolution (1960-80)

Ref. 3485

Square Patek Philippe ref. 3485

    Period: 1963-70
    Production: 7* (4* WG, 3* YG)
    Movement: Manual (27-460)
    Specifics: stepped case
    Source: Phi Geneva Nov. 2019, Collector Square

  

Ref. 3497

quirky Patek Philippe 3497 bracelet watch

    Period: 1963-65
    Production: 4* (4* WG)
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 175)
    Specifics: Asymmetrique
    Source: Phi Geneva Nov. 2019, Collector Square

  

Ref. 3578-1

Lapis Lazuli Patek Philippe ref. 3578

    Period: 1963-65
    Production: 9* (3* YG, 6* WG)
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 175)
    Specifics: Lapis Lazuli bezel
    Source: Collector Square

  

Ref. 3579

rare Tonneau shaped Patek Philippe ref. 3579

    Period: 1969-74
    Production: 150-200 steel only
    Movement: Manual (cal. 23-300)
    Specifics: cushion case, 33mm
    Source: Chr NY Dec. 2016

  

Ref. 3574

Interesting Patek Philippe ref. 3574

    Period: 1970-74
    Production: 500 steel only
    Movement: Manual (cal. 23-300)
    Specifics: cushion case, engraved hands, 35mm
    Source: Chr HK June 2017

  

Ref. 4121

Patek Philippe ref. 4121 jewelry watch

    Period: 1971-73
    Production: 5* (3* WG, 2* YG)
    Movement: Manual (cal. 175)
    Specifics: "natural forms"
    Source: Collector Square

  

 

  

Ellipse References

Ref. 3604

rare Patek Philippe Ellipse Date ref. 3604

    Period: 1971-80
    Production: 1900
    Movement: Automatic (Cal. 28-255)
    Specifics: Ellipse, Date
    Source: Phillips Geneva Nov. 2021

  

Ref. 3605

Patek Philippe ref. 3605 Ellipse Date

    Period: 1971-84
    Production: 1200 (800 YG, 400 WG)
    Movement: Automatic (Cal. 28-255)
    Specifics: Ellipse, Date
    Source: Phillips HK June 2021

  

Ref. 3580

backwinder Patek Philippe ref. 3580 Ellipse

    Period: 1972-80
    Production: "few hundred" (steel)
    Movement: Automatic (Cal. 350)
    Specifics: backwinder, Ellipse
    Source: Collectability

  

Ref. 3619

Travel-Time Patek Philippe ref. 3619

    Period: 1976-87
    Production: 30
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 27-HS)
    Specifics: Ellipse Travel-Time, "Heures Sauntates"
    Source: Sot HK July 2020

  

Ref. 3880

Skeleton Patek Philippe ref. 3880

    Period: 1980-99
    Production: 30*
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 177)
    Specifics: Ellipse Squelette
    Source: Collectability

 

 

 

Neo-Vintage Years (1980-2000)

Ref. 3969

Jump Hour Anniversary Patek Philippe ref. 3969

    Period: 1989
    Production: 500 (450 RG, 50 PT)
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 215HG)
    Specifics: Jump Hour
    Source: Chr Geneva Nov. 2021

 

Ref. 4900

Women's Patek Philippe ref. 4900 Pagoda

    Period: 1997-99
    Production: 750 (500 YG, 150 RG, 100 WG)
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 16-250)
    Specifics: Pagoda (Women), Anniversary
    Source: Chr Geneva Nov. 2013

 

Ref. 5500

Patek Philippe ref. 5500 Pagoda

    Period: 1997-99
    Production: 2000 (1100 YG, 500 RG, 250 WG, 150 PT)
    Movement: Manual (Cal. 215)
    Specifics: Pagoda (Men), Anniversary
    Source: Phi HK May 2022

 

 

 


Shaped Patek Philippe Watches - Electronic

Ref. 3587

Futuristic Patek Philippe ref. 3587 Beta21     Period: 1969-72
    Production: 200-500 (9* YG, 90 3587-2)
    Movement: Beta21
    Specifics: The First
    Source: Collectability, PlusUltra

 

Ref. 3597

Beta-21 Patek Philippe ref. 3597     Period: 1973-74
    Production: 200 (50 YG 3597/2)
    Movement: Beta22
    Specifics: 43mm Cushion case
    Source: Sot London Aug. 2020, Phi Geneva May 2022,
PlusUltra

 

Ref. 3603

an Oddity - Patek Philippe Grande Ellipse ref. 3603     Period: 1973-83
    Production: 120-200
    Movement: Beta22
    Specifics: Grande Ellipse
    Source: Collectability, Plus Ultra

 

Ref. 3770

Unusual Hybrid Patek Philippe ref. 3770 Nautilus-Ellipse     Period: 1980-92
    Production: 300
    Movement: Quartz E27
    Specifics: Nautilus Ellipse "Nautellipse"
    Source: Collectability, PlusUltra

 

 

 

* The asterisk indicates a lower bound for production numbers. It displays known examples - thus more pieces or pieces in other materials may (likely) exist.

 

 

Patek Philippe Movements - Shaped Movements

You can find all this information on Uhren-Wiki & Collectability

7 ligne (18mm):

Cal. 7-70 - 11,780 pieces (1941-69) - often in women's ref.

8 ligne (20.5mm):

Cal. 8-80 - 3,918 pieces (1934-60) - often in women's ref.

9 ligne (23mm):

Cal. 9-90 - 17,890 pieces (1934-87) - in ref. 425/1, 494, 528 562, 564, 579, 596, 1434, 1450, 1480, 1482, 1507, 1553, 1593, 2495, 2440, 2441, 2442, 2443, 2456/1, 2471, 2503, 2517, 2519

Electronic:

Beta-21 - 6000 overall, ~500-550 for Patek Philippe (1970-72) - 400 first batch (Apr. 1970) - 14 ligne (35.6mm) - in ref. 3587

 

All Rights on the text and graphics reserved to the Author. 

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1 comment

  • Missing the 2503!

    Mario on

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