This is already the second part of this Patek Philippe part of my database. And this one is pretty special for me too as it covers an area of watch design that has always been fascinating me - shaped watches. I'll try to lay the foundation for a community driven database for the rare, the rarely seen and the rarely remembered timepieces that do not get the attention that other pieces might get. I'd be more than happy for everyone who sees him/herself fit to share and to add information about what we love - vintage watches. This is not an exhaustive list, yet(!) but I want it to become a central resource for everyone finding their way into vintage watches, from novice to expert.
April 04, 2023
Vintage Patek Philippe Guide: Shaped Watches
Marcus Siems @siemswatches
Collector, Author, Data Analyst
Reference Guide & Database:
Rolex Chronographs 1940s-50s - Pre-Daytona - Daytona
Patek Philippe Sub-Second - Center-Second - Shaped Watches
This is already the second part of this Patek Philippe part of my database. And this one is pretty special for me too as it covers an area of watch design that has always been fascinating me - shaped watches.
I'll try to lay the foundation for a community driven database for the rare, the rarely seen and the rarely remembered timepieces that do not get the attention that other pieces might get. I'd be more than happy for everyone who sees him/herself fit to share and to add information about what we love - vintage watches. This is not an exhaustive list, yet(!) but I want it to become a central resource for everyone finding their way into vintage watches, from novice to expert.
The beauty of shaped watches. Particularly Patek Philippe was on the forefront of designing these special oddities all throughout the last Century. Photo Patek Philippe ref. 3485 Courtesy of Monaco Legend Group.
Counterintuitively, the most prominent and game-changing pieces - so the best-sellers - are the pieces with the least reliable production estimates and are thus less often covered... as is the case here. So hopefully we can close these gaps together.
You can also find some Beginner's Guides on shaped watches - here - here - here - here -
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Shaped Patek Philippe Watches - Mechanical
Early References (1937-45)
Ref. 77
Period: 1930-34
Production: 2* PT known
Movement: Manual
Specifics: One of first with reference number
Source: Chr Geneva Nov. 2018
Ref. 492
Period: 1936-49
Production: 12* steel
Movement: Manual
Specifics: Stepped case
Source: Chr Geneva Nov. 2019
Ref. 1485
Period: 1940-49
Production: 200 (200 steel)
Movement: Manual (10-110/10-200)
Specifics: Taubert case
Source: Collectability
Post War Years (1945-60)
Ref. 1593
Period: 1944-67
Production: 1000 (250 PT)
Movement: Manual
Specifics: Markowski Case
Source: Phi Geneva Nov. 2019
Ref. 2441
Period: 1948-58
Production: 200
Movement: Manual (Cal. 9-90)
Specifics: Eiffel Tower (Markowski)
Source: Chr NY Dec. 2018
Ref. 2442
Period: 1948-53
Production: 200 (60 RG, 3* PT)
Movement: Manual (Cal. 9-90)
Specifics: Marylin Monroe (Markowski)
Source: Phi Geneva Nov. 2022, MLG Apr. 2023
Ref. 2443
Period: 1948-53
Production: 41* (16* YG, 10* RG, 15* PT)
Movement: Manual (Cal. 9-90)
Specifics: Straight Claw Lugs
Source: Chr NY Apr. 2008, MLG Oct. 2021, Herschmann Ascona
Ref. 2471
Period: 1950-53
Production: 60 (40 YG, 20 RG)
Movement: Manual (9-90)
Specifics: "Ram's Head" lugs
Source: Chr Geneva May 2015, Phi NY Dec. 2018
Ref. 2517
Period: 1950-53
Production: 9* (4* YG, 4* RG, 1* YG/PT)
Movement: Manual (9-90)
Specifics: hooded lugs
Source: Collector Square
Ref. 2514
Period: 1950-56
Production: 9* (7* YG, 2* RG)
Movement: Manual (cal. 27 SC)
Specifics: cow-horn lugs
Source: Collector Square
Gilbert Albert Designs (1955-62 - Markowski cases, Stern Freres dials)
Ref. 3409
Period: 1958-62
Production: 8*
Movement: Manual (9-90)
Specifics: Bracelet, Ruby marker, bark finish
Source: Collectability
Ref. 3412
Period: 1958-62
Production: 16 (12 YG, 4 RG)
Movement: Manual (23-300)
Specifics: Asymmetrique
Source: Collectability
Ref. 3413
Period: 1958-59
Production: 7*
Movement: Manual (23-300)
Specifics: -
Source: Chr Geneva Nov. 2010
Ref. 3422
Period: 1958-62
Production: 10* (4 RG, 6* YG)
Movement: Manual (23-300)
Specifics: Asymmetrique
Source: Chr NY June 2015, Collector Square
Ref. 3424
Period: 1958-62
Production: 152 (90 YG, 30 RG, 18 WG, 24 PT)
Movement: Manual (8-85)
Specifics: Asymmetrique, "most common" GA
Source: Sot NY June 2021
Ref. 3270
Period: 1960-61
Production: 4* (4* YG, 1* bracelet)
Movement: Manual (Cal. 13.5)
Specifics: 3270-1 bracelet
Source: Collectability
Upswing and Quartz Revolution (1960-80)
Ref. 3485
Period: 1963-70
Production: 7* (4* WG, 3* YG)
Movement: Manual (27-460)
Specifics: stepped case
Source: Phi Geneva Nov. 2019, Collector Square
Ref. 3497
Period: 1963-65
Production: 4* (4* WG)
Movement: Manual (Cal. 175)
Specifics: Asymmetrique
Source: Phi Geneva Nov. 2019, Collector Square
Ref. 3578-1
Period: 1963-65
Production: 9* (3* YG, 6* WG)
Movement: Manual (Cal. 175)
Specifics: Lapis Lazuli bezel
Source: Collector Square
Ref. 3579
Period: 1969-74
Production: 150-200 steel only
Movement: Manual (cal. 23-300)
Specifics: cushion case, 33mm
Source: Chr NY Dec. 2016
Ref. 3574
Period: 1970-74
Production: 500 steel only
Movement: Manual (cal. 23-300)
Specifics: cushion case, engraved hands, 35mm
Source: Chr HK June 2017
Ref. 4121
Period: 1971-73
Production: 5* (3* WG, 2* YG)
Movement: Manual (cal. 175)
Specifics: "natural forms"
Source: Collector Square
Ellipse References
Ref. 3604
Period: 1971-80
Production: 1900
Movement: Automatic (Cal. 28-255)
Specifics: Ellipse, Date
Source: Phillips Geneva Nov. 2021
Ref. 3605
Period: 1971-84
Production: 1200 (800 YG, 400 WG)
Movement: Automatic (Cal. 28-255)
Specifics: Ellipse, Date
Source: Phillips HK June 2021
Ref. 3580
Period: 1972-80
Production: "few hundred" (steel)
Movement: Automatic (Cal. 350)
Specifics: backwinder, Ellipse
Source: Collectability
Ref. 3619
Period: 1976-87
Production: 30
Movement: Manual (Cal. 27-HS)
Specifics: Ellipse Travel-Time, "Heures Sauntates"
Source: Sot HK July 2020
Ref. 3880
Period: 1980-99
Production: 30*
Movement: Manual (Cal. 177)
Specifics: Ellipse Squelette
Source: Collectability
Neo-Vintage Years (1980-2000)
Ref. 3969
Period: 1989
Production: 500 (450 RG, 50 PT)
Movement: Manual (Cal. 215HG)
Specifics: Jump Hour
Source: Chr Geneva Nov. 2021
Ref. 4900
Period: 1997-99
Production: 750 (500 YG, 150 RG, 100 WG)
Movement: Manual (Cal. 16-250)
Specifics: Pagoda (Women), Anniversary
Source: Chr Geneva Nov. 2013
Ref. 5500
Period: 1997-99
Production: 2000 (1100 YG, 500 RG, 250 WG, 150 PT)
Movement: Manual (Cal. 215)
Specifics: Pagoda (Men), Anniversary
Source: Phi HK May 2022
Shaped Patek Philippe Watches - Electronic
Ref. 3587
Period: 1969-72
Production: 200-500 (9* YG, 90 3587-2)
Movement: Beta21
Specifics: The First
Source: Collectability, PlusUltra
Ref. 3597
Period: 1973-74
Production: 200 (50 YG 3597/2)
Movement: Beta22
Specifics: 43mm Cushion case
Source: Sot London Aug. 2020, Phi Geneva May 2022,
PlusUltra
Ref. 3603
Period: 1973-83
Production: 120-200
Movement: Beta22
Specifics: Grande Ellipse
Source: Collectability, Plus Ultra
Ref. 3770
Period: 1980-92
Production: 300
Movement: Quartz E27
Specifics: Nautilus Ellipse "Nautellipse"
Source: Collectability, PlusUltra
* The asterisk indicates a lower bound for production numbers. It displays known examples - thus more pieces or pieces in other materials may (likely) exist.
Patek Philippe Movements - Shaped Movements
You can find all this information on Uhren-Wiki & Collectability
7 ligne (18mm):
Cal. 7-70 - 11,780 pieces (1941-69) - often in women's ref.
8 ligne (20.5mm):
Cal. 8-80 - 3,918 pieces (1934-60) - often in women's ref.
9 ligne (23mm):
Cal. 9-90 - 17,890 pieces (1934-87) - in ref. 425/1, 494, 528 562, 564, 579, 596, 1434, 1450, 1480, 1482, 1507, 1553, 1593, 2495, 2440, 2441, 2442, 2443, 2456/1, 2471, 2503, 2517, 2519
Electronic:
Beta-21 - 6000 overall, ~500-550 for Patek Philippe (1970-72) - 400 first batch (Apr. 1970) - 14 ligne (35.6mm) - in ref. 3587
All Rights on the text and graphics reserved to the Author.
